This year I wanted to celebrate Granny Square Day by coming up with a design inspired by those who've made my patterns, so whenever I got support requests from crafters making one of my patterns for a little help with a particular stitch, I worked a round including it on this granny square during one of my livestreams so the crafter had the opportunity to watch me work through the stitch and answer any further questions. You can view clips of these videos by following the bold pink links. I hope they help you follow any tricky instructions!
I had a lovely response to it and I was so pleased that I decided I should make this pattern available for free on my website in both UK and US terminology so as many people as possible can make it. This 12” square block is a fun make for crocheters, featuring some interesting stitches. It could be incorporated into a blanket with other squares.
If you don't like reading patterns directly from a website, a printable pdf pattern download is available to purchase on Ravelry or on Etsy. This also contains detailed instructions with video links for making a small lined tote bag from two of the squares
This page shows the UK terminology version. If you prefer to work in US terminology then you'll want to go to this page instead.
Requirements
10-40m (10-45 yds) of worsted/aran weight yarn in wool/acrylic/cotton in each of 6 colours, (C1- C6). I’ve used Jody Long Cottontails in mine, a soft, blown cotton yarn. 4.5mm hook (US 7) or suitable hook size to achieve desired texture, e.g. size suggested on the yarn band Yarn needle, stitch markers and scissors
Item description
Size
30cm/12” square
Working method
The square is worked motif style in rounds with increases at the corners to keep it flat as it grows. It is never turned.
Abbreviations
ch chain slst slip stitch dc double crochet htr half treble tr treble dtr double treble ttr triple treble qtr quintuple (5 wrap) treble st/sts stitch/stitches R Row/round chsp chain space RS/WS right/wrong side Wyif/wyib with yarn in front/back Fdc foundation double crochet (h)tr2tog (half) treble 2 together decrease: [yarn over once, insert hook into next st, yarn over and draw through stitch (3 loops on hook), yarn over, draw through 2 loops] twice, yarn over, draw through 3 loops LNX Long Narrow X xtitch: Yarn over 5 times, insert hook into specified st, yarn over and draw through stitch (7 loops on hook), [yarn over, draw through 2 loops] 3 times (4 loops), yarn over twice, insert hook in the top of next st, yarn over and draw through stitch (7 loops), [yarn over, draw through 2 loops] 6 times (1 loop), yarn over twice, insert hook in direction of work through two prominent loops at midline of LNX st, yarn over and draw through (4 loops), [yarn over, draw through 2 loops] 3 times.
Crochet pattern notes
Starting chains count as a stitch unless stated and can be replaced by standing sts if preferred. Magic loop can be used at start if preferred. Unless directed to work into a chsp, treat each chain as a stitch and work into it. To do this, you can either insert your hook between the two top loops and the back bump of the chain or behind the front loop and in front of the back loop and back bump. The first stitch of each side can sometimes be hidden as you work the corner of the next round; this stitch does count as a stitch so should be worked into or counted when missing sts at the start of a side.
Method
Square block
With colour A, work 4 ch, join as a loop and slst in the centre of the loop.
R1: Working into loop 3 ch (counts as 1 tr), 2 tr, 2 ch, [3 tr, 2 ch] 3 times, slst in 1st st of round, fasten off C1. 20 sts (12 sts, 4 2chsp)
R2: Attach C2 in any 2chsp, 5 ch (counts as 1 tr, 2 ch), 1 tr in same chsp, 3 ch, miss 3, [(1 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr) in 2chsp, 3 ch, miss 3] 3 times, slst in 1st st of round, slst until 2chsp, 1 slst into 2chsp. 28 sts (8 sts, 4 2chsp, 4 3chsp)
R3: 1 ch (does not count as st), [(1 dc, 2 ch, 1 dc) in 2chsp, dc in each st and ch to next 2chsp] 4 times, slst in 1st st of round, fasten off C2. 20 sts (28 sts, 4 2chsp)
R4: Attach C3 in any 2chsp, 5 ch (counts as 1 tr, 2 ch), 1 tr in same chsp, *2 ch, miss 2, 1 ttr in first R1 tr of group wyif R2-3, 1 ttr in R1 tr wyib R2-3, 1 ttr in R1 tr wyif R2-3, 2 ch, miss 2, (1 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr) in 2chsp, 2 ch, miss 2, 1 ttr in R1 tr wyib R2-3, 1 ttr in R1 tr wyif R2-3, 1 ttr in R1 tr wyib R2-3, 2 ch, miss 2,* (1 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr) in 2chsp, rep section between * and *, slst in 1st st of round, 1 slst into 2chsp. 44 sts (20 sts, 12 2chsp)
R5: 1 ch (does not count as stitch), [(1 dc, 2 ch, 1 dc) in 2chsp, dc to next 2chsp] 4 times, slst in 1st st of round, fasten off C3. 52 sts (44 sts, 4 2chsp)
R6: Attach C4 in any 2chsp, 12 ch (counts as 1 qtr, 6 ch), 1 qtr in same chsp, 2 ch, miss 2, LNX, miss 1, 1 qtr, 1 ch, 1 qtr in same st as last qtr, miss 1, LNX, 2 ch, miss 2, [1 qtr, 6 ch, 1 qtr in 2chsp, 2 ch, miss 2, LNX, miss 1, 1 qtr, 1 ch, 1 qtr in same st as last qtr, miss 1, LNX, 2 ch, miss 2] 3 times, slst in 1st st of round, 1 slst into 6chsp. 68 sts (24 sts with X sts counting as 1 st, 4 6chsp, 8 2chsp, 4 1chsp)
R7: 1 ch (does not count as stitch), [(1 dc, 1 htr, 1 tr, 1 dtr, 2 ch, 1 dtr, 1 tr, 1 htr, 1 dc) in 6chsp, dc to next 6chsp, working into each stitch head and around each ch into the chsp] 4 times, slst in 1st st of round, fasten off C4. 92 sts (84 sts, 4 2chsp)
R8: Attach C5 in any 2chsp, 5 ch (counts as 1 tr, 2 ch), 1 tr in same 2chsp, [1 ch, miss 1, 1 tr2tog, 1 ch, miss 1, 2 tr in same st] twice, [1 ch, miss 1, 2 tr in same st , 1 ch, miss 1, 1 tr2tog] twice, 1 ch, miss 1, *(1tr, 2 ch, 1 tr) in 2 chsp, [1 ch, miss 1, 1 tr2tog, 1 ch, miss 1, 2 tr in same st] twice, [1 ch, miss 1, 2 tr in same st , 1 ch, miss 1, 1 tr2tog] 1 ch, miss 1, twice, rep from * twice more, slst in 1st st of round, 1 slst into 2chsp. 100 sts (56 sts, 4 2chsp, 36 1chsp)
R9: 1 ch (does not count as stitch), [(2 dc, 2 ch, 2 dc) in 2chsp, dc to next 2chsp] 4 times, slst in 1st st of round, fasten off C5. 116 sts (108 sts, 4 2chsp)
R10: (Option: work either into sts in the usual manner for a slightly scalloped effect on R9 or into into BLO for a straight edged finish to R9) Attach C6 in any 2chsp, 3 ch (counts as 1 tr), 2 tr, 2 ch, 3 tr in same 2chsp, *1 ch, miss 3, 3 tr in same st, rep from* along side to last 3 sts before 2chsp, 1 ch miss 3, [(3 tr, 2 ch, 3 tr) in 2chsp, *1 ch, miss 3, 3 tr in same st, rep from* along side to last 3 sts before 2chsp, 1 ch miss 3] 3 times, slst in 1st 3 sts of round, slst into 2chsp. 132 sts (96 sts, 28 1chsp 4 2chsp)
R11-12: 3 ch (counts as 1 tr), 2 tr, 2 ch, 3 tr in same 2chsp, *1 ch, miss 3, 3tr in same 1chsp, rep from* along side to last 3 sts before 2chsp, 1 ch miss 3, [(3 tr, 2 ch, 3 tr) in 2chsp, *1 ch, miss 3, 3tr in same st, rep from* to last 3 sts before 2chsp, 1 ch miss 3] 3 times, slst in 1st 3 sts of round, slst into 2chsp. 164 sts (120 sts, 36 1chsp 4 2chsp)
R13: 2 ch (counts as 1 htr), 1 htr, 2 ch, 2 htr in same 2chsp, htr to next 2chsp, [(2 htr, 2 ch, 2 htr) in 2chsp, htr to next 2chsp] 3 times, slst in 1st st of round, fasten off C6. 180 sts (172 sts, 4 2chsp)
Finishing
Weave in ends and block to size.
Make it your own
You could try this in different weights of yarn, e.g. a DK yarn to get a smaller square, or fibres, e.g. a fluffy mohair yarn for a soft effect.
The block will still look interesting in a single colour or a variegated yarn.
You could enlarge it to match the size of partner blocks in a sampler blanket by working an htr into each st of the previous round and (1 htr, 2 ch, 1 htr) in each 2ch-sp at the corners to keep it square. Otherwise you could stop a few rounds early to obtain a smaller square.
You could use this block for garments, e.g. a simple shrug; accessories like scarves and shawls; a market bag; homewares like a blanket or cushion.
How did it go?
I love to hear from anyone who uses one of my patterns to create a project. Feedback you give about the pattern will help me develop future patterns that are easy to follow and it’s always exciting to see in-progress or finished projects created using my patterns. Use #grannyscaptivated on Instagram and do tag me in your post or caption! If you would like to keep up to date with what I’m working on and be the first to know about new pattern releases, I send out a monthly email update with subscriber discounts, behind the scenes news and exclusive previews. Do sign up: Mailing List Sign up!