Using your fireworks pendant, washcloth or coaster free crochet pattern
Whether it’s Guy Fawkes night, New Year’s Eve or the Fourth of July, fireworks brighten up the festivities as night draws in. Create an eye-catching pendant to wear to your favourite firework event and give your outfit the same treatment or make a set of coasters, a washcloth, trivet or pot-holder just by changing the yarn weight and hook size. This fireworks pendant, washcloth or coaster free crochet pattern is fun to work up and very versatile.
Requirements
Pendant
20m/yds black or dark blue/grey size 10 crochet thread or 6 strand embroidery floss
2m/yds each of three contrast shades in size 10 crochet thread or 6 strand embroidery floss (red, pink and green are shown in the photo)
1.25mm hook (US 10 steel) or suitable hook to achieve a firm fabric
Small fine needle and scissors
Coaster
25m/yds black or dark blue/grey sportweight or DK cotton yarn
3m/yds each of three contrast shades in sportweight or DK cotton yarn (blue, pink and purple are shown in the photo)
3.5mm hook (US E hook) or suitable hook to achieve a firm fabric
Small tapestry needle and scissors
Washcloth, Trivet, Pot-holder
30m/yds black or dark blue/grey aran or worsted weight cotton yarn
2m/yds each of three contrast shades in aran or worsted weight cotton yarn (silver, pink and gold are shown in the photo)
5mm hook (US H) or suitable hook to achieve a firm fabric
Small fine needle and scissors
Abbreviations and Techniques
ch chain
ss slip stitch
dc double crochet
tr treble crochet (UK only)
sc single crochet (US only)
R Round
How to work UK tr/US dc around the chains into the row below them so the chains are enclosed in the stitch.
The hook is shown wrapped as for UK tr/US dc and placed under contrast shade and through head of dark shade st below then wrapped with the working yarn behind ready to pull through, enclosing the contrast shade.
Item description
Size
Pendant Diameter: 5cm (2”) diameter approx.
Coaster Diameter: 10cm (4”) diameter approx.
Mat/cloth/trivet/pot-holder Diameter: 18cm (7”) diameter approx.
Gauge is not important as long as the fabric produced is firm and dense.
Working method
The piece is worked in joined, concentric rounds.
Here's the coaster version wishing everyone happy New Year on Instagram:
Pattern notes
This pattern is available in UK terminology and US terminology
Beginning chains at the start of UK treble/US double crochet rounds count as stitches. There is no need to cut the dark thread before working these rounds; instead carry the thread at the back to the following round.
It is worth using a standing UK dc/US sc rather than a chain at the start of contrast colour rounds as it gives a more consistent appearance and easier join but also fine to use the traditional slip stitch join and beginning chain if you prefer.
If you prefer, you can substitute a suitable alternative technique for the magic loop in R1 and tighten the centre while weaving in the ends if needed.
Method UK Terms (US Terms below)
Start with magic loop, and work in concentric joined rounds:
R1 With dark shade, 3 ch (counts as tr), 11 tr into magic loop, tighten and slst into 1st st of R1, secure live loop, do not fasten off. (12 sts)
R2 With 1st contrast shade, taking care to keep dark shade thread/yarn at front of work when working past live loop, standing dc between any two R1 tr, 3 ch, miss 3, *1 dc between 3rd and 4th R1 tr from previous dc, 3ch. Repeat from * twice more, slst into 1st st of R2, fasten off 1st contrast shade. It is normal for R2 to look quite tight. (4 sts; 4 3chsp)
R3 Using dark shade, and working each st into R1 around the contrast colour chain as shown in the image, 3 ch, 1 tr into same R1 st, 2 tr in each st to end, slst into 1st st of R3, secure live loop, do not fasten off. (24 sts)
R4 With 2nd contrast shade, taking care to keep dark shade thread/yarn at front of work when working past live loop, standing dc between any two R3 tr, 3 ch, miss 3, *1 dc between 3rd and 4th R3 tr from previous dc, 3 ch. Repeat from * to end, slst into 1st st of R4, fasten off 2nd contrast shade. (8 sts; 8 3chsp)
R5 Using dark shade, and working each st into R3 around the contrast colour chain as shown in the image, 3 ch, 2 tr in next st, 1 tr, 2tr in next st, repeat from * to end, slst into 1st st of R5, secure live loop, do not fasten off. (36 sts)
R6 With 3rd contrast shade, taking care to keep dark shade thread/yarn at front of work when working past live loop, standing dc between two R5 tr positioned just after a R4 dc, 3 ch, miss 3, *1 dc between 3rd and 4th R5 tr from previous dc, 3 ch. Repeat from * to end, slst into 1st st of R6, fasten off 3rd contrast shade. (12sts; 12 3chsp)
R7 Using dark shade, and working each st into R5 around the contrast colour chain as shown in the image, 3 ch, 1 tr into same R1 st, 2 tr, *2 tr in next st, 2 tr, repeat from to end, slst into 1st st of R7. (48 sts)
R8 1ch (does not count as st), 1dc in same st, 1 tr, 3 ch,1 tr, 1 dc, 1dc st, 1 tr, 3 ch,1 tr, 1 dc, repeat from to end, slst into 1st st of R7. (48 sts; 12 3chsp)
If not adding a hanging loop, fasten off here and move on to Finishing.
Method US Terms (UK Terms above)
Start with magic loop, and work in concentric joined rounds:
R1 With dark shade, 3 ch (counts as dc), 11 dc into magic loop, tighten and slst into 1st st of R1, secure live loop, do not fasten off. (12 sts)
R2 With 1st contrast shade, taking care to keep dark shade thread/yarn at front of work when working past live loop, standing sc between any two R1 dc, 3 ch, miss 3, *1 sc between 3rd and 4th R1 dc from previous sc, 3ch. Repeat from * twice more, slst into 1st st of R2, fasten off 1st contrast shade. It is normal for R2 to look quite tight. (4 sts; 4 3chsp)
R3 Using dark shade, and working each st into R1 around the contrast colour chain as shown in the image, 3 ch, 1 dc into same R1 st, 2 dc in each st to end, slst into 1st st of R3, secure live loop, do not fasten off. (24 sts)
R4 With 2nd contrast shade, taking care to keep dark shade thread/yarn at front of work when working past live loop, standing sc between any two R3 dc, 3 ch, miss 3, *1 sc between 3rd and 4th dc R3 from previous sc, 3 ch. Repeat from * to end, slst into 1st st of R4, fasten off 2nd contrast shade. (8 sts; 8 3chsp)
R5 Using dark shade, and working each st into R3 around the contrast colour chain as shown in the image, 3 ch, 2 dc in next st, *1 dc, 2 dc in next st, repeat from * to end, slst into 1st st of R5, secure live loop, do not fasten off. (36 sts)
R6 With 3rd contrast shade, taking care to keep dark shade thread/yarn at front of work when working past live loop, standing dc between two R5 dc positioned just after a R4 sc, 3 ch, miss 3, *1 sc between 3rd and 4th R5 dc from previous sc, 3 ch. Repeat from * to end, slst into 1st st of R6, fasten off 3rd contrast shade. (12sts; 12 3chsp)
R7 Using dark shade, and working each st into R5 around the contrast colour chain as shown in the image, 3 ch, 1 dc into same R1 st, 2 dc, *2 dc in next st, 2 dc, repeat from to end, slst into 1st st of R7. (48 sts)
R8 1ch (does not count as st), 1dc in same st, 1 tr, 3 ch,1 tr, 1 dc, 1dc st, 1 tr, 3 ch,1 tr, 1 dc, repeat from to end, slst into 1st st of R7. (48 sts; 12 3chsp)
If not adding a hanging loop, fasten off here and move on to Finishing.
Hanging loop
Option 1 - Loop that sits behind the pendant
4 ch (or suitable number to match width of your ribbon/chain/cord). Draw toward centre rear of pendant, slst to nearest stitch. Fasten off.
Option 2 - Loop that sits above the pendant
6 ch (or suitable number to go around your hanging hook), slst to last st of R8. Fasten off.
Finishing
Weave in and trim all ends neatly. Block to shape.
Also shown: Festive Diwali Diya
How did it go?
I love to hear from anyone who uses one of my patterns to create a project. Any feedback you give about the pattern will help me develop future patterns that are easy to follow and it’s always exciting to see in-progress or finished projects created using my patterns.
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